Woken to the sound of rain, a tropical downpour. Just the two of us at breakfast Mr Manager true to his word has been shopping, now the Dame is spoilt for choice and could end up looking like the elephants. Bread, pancakes, banana cake and cornflakes. He looks so pleased with his selection. “Just toast” the Dame tells him, now he looks so disappointed. “Okay I will have a piece of banana cake” The bread and cake are from a mix, but they are very good, the Duke also has some of the bread, better than Mother’s Pride. 

Today we are going back to the National Park to attempt the walk to the ‘Big Tree’. At the visitor center we met the lady from yesterday, she is very pleased to see us. Given a map, the sort you would draw on the back of a cigarette packet! Off we go. So far very well signposted, the climb up begins.

At the first view point it also seems to be a tea station not sure we will join in!

The climb begins to get steeper as we skirt the mountain. Lots of our friends join us on the climb, luckily we have given ourselves a good coating of Mossi spray. Approaching a very narrow ledge with a steep drop on our left, “what are we doing up here” the Duke protested. “One cannot go back, press on,” says the Dame… Not sure the Duke agrees. At the highest point of the climb they do provide ropes so you can pull yourself up. Frequent stops for water and Mossi spray are needed. Hooray sign to ‘The Big Tree’ Yes it is a huge tree.

The way down is not so steep but quite slippery and not very well signposted, but the Duke is leading the way and with his Commando training (well he was a Boy Scout) we found the right path. The Duke and Duchess now have aching knees and sore toes from the descent. But made it to the bottom not bad for a couple of oldies. The Duke comments ‘after that climb I should be able to keep up with Peter Mulholland!” (walking football)

Back to the Lodge for a much needed drink, shower, lunch and siesta.

At dinner tonight there was a local dance troupe. Girls from the village performing traditional Thai dances. Their performances here and at other hotels raise money for the school, They were excellent and so was dinner. 

Sorry this article should have been posted on the 22nd (to many Singh’s)

Up early first ones down for breakfast. Today we are attending a Thai cooking class. A Song Thaew picks us up at 9 and we drive into old Chiang Mai. First hotel we pick up a Japanese girl, she climbs in to Van not saying a word sits down an immediately gets out her phone. She has a handbag with Gucci on the strap, we have never seen so many designer labels, of course some could be fakes.

Next hotel we pick up two girls, opposite to grumpy. The are from Gallica, so this is good five of us. We arrive at a market. Oh no lots of people. But we saved they split groups into languages, so we have the two Spanish girls, a couple from Germany. We assemble by a stall selling vegetables and we are greeted by Peanut our young instructor. He tells us about the ingredients that we will use today. After we have time to look around the market. Being a fish in Thailand is not good. Lots of big baskets containing large fish, far too many fish all gasping for air, turtles big and tiny and frogs, they are all kept alive. Back to the car.

We arrive at Mama Noi’s the cooking school. Here we are joined by a Canadian lady and her daughter, they are taking a year off and seeing the world and a older Japanese lady. The class is shown round the organic garden. It’s a strange garden it has some lovely plants, but a lot of plastic Disney type characters.

In the hall where we are going to cook Peanut give us a menu to choose what we are going to cook. First job is preparing a curry paste using a pestle and mortar, that gets some perspiration going. Next is the soup, followed by a noodle dish. It’s all very tasty. Three of the class have just booked half a day so after the main meal is cooked they leave. We are thinking of leaving as we are stuffed. The next class is taken by a character what people call a Lady Boy. He is all made up, including pouting lips, just adds to the day. We make Spring Rolls and Bananas fritters. There is no way we can eat them so they pack them up as a takeaway. Before we leave we purchase a chopper 120 Bhat.

This evening we are heading back to  Boy Blue Bar. First we look around the market. The Dame purchases a couple of things and some nice Christmas decorations. Tonight Boy Blue himself is playing. We are surprised not that many people in the bar. The band has a Sax player, drums, organ, bass and Boy on guitar. Boy is a real character, big mop of curly grey hair beneath a huge smile. He plays his guitar in an unusual way and gets a lot of unusual sound. Between Boy and the Sax player they get some good music going.

A really good evening. Back to hotel another early start.

… in the Jungle!!

Woken up to the sound of rain on the roof of our hut, on looking out it was misty just like home! Not quite the peace and quite expected, we could hear  the distant sound of traffic, then someone started playing loud music, but not for long maybe it was the breakfast call a bit like Butlin’s. A fantastic view greeted us in the restaurant the beautiful craggy mountains shrouded in mist. But unfortunately the elation didn’t last. They do not have gluten free for the Dame, even though she requested it with the booking and when we checked in. Of course we were spoilt at the last hotel, but this lodge has a lot to learn. Very little fresh fruit or cereal. The Duke orders French Toast with banana, Oh dear, soggy Mother’s Pride bread with a small bowl of Maple syrup. It gets sent back and a banana pancake is ordered, OK but made from a pre-mix and no sign of the bananas, perhaps the elephants had eaten them all. There are other issues such as not being able to make the hot water in our shower work. We asked to speak to the manager and are told he will be in late afternoon. Excercise is needed. We decided to do the Anurak walk, one hour through the National Park. So with a sketchy map and instructions, out of the Lodge cross the road, we do not see the sign or arrows we were told to look for. Bump into a Dutch couple looking for the same entrance. Giving up walked about 1km to a different signposted entrance. On the way we passed a new Café, eighteen workman are attempting to erect a huge sign ‘Bridge Hill Café on a really high scaffold. Solely with manpower and ropes, the guys on the scaffold were barefooted. We move on, this could take a while. Arriving at the entrance discovered there was  a 100 baht entrance fee. The lady who takes the money showed us a map and explained it is a 2 hour walk but we haven’t any money on us, as you know Royalty doesn’t carry money.

On our way back entering the Lodge by a different entrance we saw the original walk sign and arrows just by the entrance. We were very relieved that the other couple couldn’t find it either. A shower is needed it is very humid then refreshments.

The Dame has a Pineapple Frappe , the Duke ordered an espresso. Well the espresso went straight into the bushes. Lunch was good Squid and prawn with glass noodles and some satay. The Duke stuck to a beer they can’t mess that up. The wind has really got up, looks like rain on its way.

Spoke to the manager who is an English guy from Devon, he already knew about the breakfast problem and was very apologetic, but we had made up our minds not for us, so leaving on Wednesday.  Great Storm during a Thai curry dinner, well we are supposed to be in a rainforest. 

Travelling today, after breakfast  hotel transfer to the airport Traffic is very Light so it only takes 20 mins. At Chiang Mai airport we discovered the first security scanners are at the entrance, resulting in long queues outside. Oh dear the Duke needs to pay a visit. Security told him go to entrance 3. Where he was permitted to go inside. Then through the scanners, when we reached departures through security again. Very thorough, The flight to Surat Thani was just under two hours and a very full flight. Our inflight meal consisted of a very small tray of stir fried rice and small cup of water. At Surat Thani we collected our luggage and headed outside to find a taxi. A man at the entrance asked “where are you going” we told  him, Anurak Community Lodge and agreed the fare. “So wait here and I will get taxi” are we doing the right thing. Another man arrived and took our suitcases, we followed still unsure but across the road in the car park was a very nice Toyota with airport limousines written on the side. We set off after a short while we asked  him to  stop at a service area for food. He pulled into a seven eleven, so we stocked up. As our next stay is fairly remote. The road to the Lodge is very good mostly a dual carriage way. As we got nearer the Limestone mountain range this area is known for came into view, stunning. At the car park a guy appeared with a hand cart and took our bags. At check-in a welcome drink and cold towel. Then we follow the cart to our jungle hut. In the Lodge the only WiFi is at the restaurant area, the Lodges are basic but comfortable with air con or a huge ceiling fan.
Ours has a nice balcony with seating and of course a view of the mountains. After a siesta we sat on the balcony and caught up with some reading. Down for dinner, the Dame had a pre-dinner cocktail and the Duke a beer. We ordered three dishes for dinner to share Pad tai with prawns, pumpkin with tofu river spinach with oyster sauce, all delicious. After dinner we sat in the community hut for some internet time and of course a night cap. No going out or live music here time to chill, listening to the night music of the jungle.

that’s the Elphants we meet

Up again at 7am the Dame is complaining about lack of beauty sleep. Breakfast so many choices, the Duke had a Banana Pancake delicious. The guide from the Rescue Elephant Sanctuary picked us up at 8.30, he introduced himself as “Tea” easy to remember. On board the Toyota people carrier, there were a couple from the Philippines . Further on we enter what we thought was a monastery but it turned out to be a 5-star hotel, the Dhara Dhevi amazing. Two American couples get on, then we set off for the Sanctuary. Another beautiful drive through the countryside after 1 and a half hours we arrived. Tea told us a lot of interesting facts about elephants including the difference between African & Thai. Then about the three  elephants we will be spending the day with and about their former lives as tourist rides and the unbelievable cruelty this involves. Sadly not all their rescued elephants make a full recovery, some have scars and deformities other are badly affected mentally. Our three are all females, one is older and must be given peeled fruit because her teeth were ruined by her previous poor diet, another is a slow and thoughtful eater Tea calls her the princess, the third can eat for all three and grabs several pieces of fruit and vegetable at once. First we have to wash the fruit in case pesticides  have been sprayed. Then separate the bananas and cut up the melon, squash and pineapple, small cucumbers also in the mix.

The three arrive it does take your breath away the size of them. They line up just the other side of a wooden bar. You just place the fruit on top of their trucks  two of the elephants will take two or three pieces of fruit at a time. They trust Tea so much he can put the food straight in their mouths. 10 people a table full of fruits it disappears in no time. Apparently their 3rd breakfast of the day, After feeding the Mahouts take the elephants away. We have to separate more bananas and place them in carry bags as we are going to walk with the elephants. The group follows Tea down a dirt road. By a lake we hear most horrendous stories of how man treats this amazing animal. Then along they come with the Mahouts. Again it takes no time to use up our supply of bananas. Then we arrive at a river, the other side is the main rescue centre with 159 elephants wandering around or bathing in the river. Into the river we go with plastic buckets,  the  elephants stand with their mahouts still feeding them while we threw buckets of water over them and rubbed the mud with our hands, you cannot believe the amount of mud on them. Back at the center for our lunch, which was excellent. Elephants need to eat 20 hours a day, bath and have a mud bath. So one of the cruel things about the elephants used for rides, they are not allowed near water in case they get the customers wet, making it impossible for them to cool down.

After lunch we make rice balls a very messy business, they contain essential nutrients and minerals. When an elephant needs medicine it is mixed into a rice ball to stop them spitting it out. They arrive for another feast. Feeding over we are off for a mud bath, the elephants love this and replace all the mud we had washed off in no time, very entertaining. Next back in the car and of to the white water rafting. The Dame and I plus one American and a Thai captain. Off we go, the river is a bit low but a couple of rapids you needed to hang on. The captain’s little joke he turns the raft backwards in a rapid causing everyone to get wet. He skillfully navigated the raft between many large boulders. Change into dry clothes, refreshing pineapple and banana, then snooze in the vehicle on the return journey. Great day, more than lived up to expectations.

Tonight we are heading for a highly rated jazz club, part of the Ibis hotel. Our Tuk Tuk driver is very old and so is his Tuk Tuk. But he gets us there. This can only happen to us, after a long ride to get there, notice on door, closed private party. Let’s try a roof top bar. This one above a hotel, it was full of young people, with a swimming pool in the center. One drink and we decide to leave. The Next rooftop bar is on top of a shopping center. Again so much bling everywhere along with Christmas lights. The cocktails are very good and they are showing Premier League football. Food not too good, so we leave, well that’s what we thought. The shopping center is now closed so the lift only goes down to the car parks. Back up and try escalators they are also closed. Back to the car park and we do find a way out, into a side alley. Songthaew home, four other people on it once they have got off the driver asked the Dame to show direction to hotel again on phone, bit of confusion, what he wants is the Dame to ride up front with him, well the Dukes not very happy, but one has to get home. No problem we find the hotel. What a night.

• 

• 

Both feeling a bit jaded this morning, we had asked Tom to take us to the Botanical gardens and two waterfalls. But decide over breakfast to skip the waterfalls so we can get back and have some rest. So cater a bit of bartering we set of.

This morning in Tom’s taxi it’s The Bee Gees! singing Words and other hits, quite a long drive to the gardens. We passed lots of temples with more ‘Bling’ than Footballers Wives. Also on route a number of tourists on quad bikes a go kart track and several Elephant sanctuaries. Arriving at the Gardens, half price for over 60s that’s good. There is a sky walk it is all metal, not like the one in Costa Rica which was a bit on the wobbly side. After sky walk back in the car and down to the main gardens. Tom asked us “do you want to walk up, or down” we decide up. “So I wait in car park at top”. There are several large glass houses containing different species of plants, then a row of smaller ones, again with different exotic plants. We wanted to go into the middle of the garden, the map shows interesting areas such as the ginger garden. but we couldnt find a path in, after several attempts we climbed up the hill and met Tom. He persuaded us to go to the waterfall which is close by. We are glad that he suggested this, it has 10 levels with steep steps sometimes just carved out of the rock to each level. On the lower levels quite a few bathers, we made it to number 9 And decided to turn back, as we hadn’t eaten. Very beautiful and definitely worth the effort. Back at the car park some much needed refreshments from the stalls. On way back to hotel Tom starts playing Rap, not our favorite and an hours drive. After a much needed siesta. The Duke went for a neck, shoulder and head massage, so the Dame headed to the pool for a swim. The massage was very good, and very thorough.

Glad rags on we head off into town for dinner. The Dame has looked out an Israeli restaurant. So we set of and before long manage to flag down a Tuk Tuk, it pulls over and a very old guy gets out and squashes up with the driver! Maybe his grandad. We see the restaurant, oh dear no one in it and not really Israeli food. Just down the road is an Indian, so curry tonight. Very good and for drinks they sent the order to a bar next door. Across from the restaurant was the night market and we could hear the sound of a live band. So dinner over we set of to find it. On an open air mezzanine above the market we discover the Boy Blue Bar. There is a band playing four guys two probably as old as the Duke a younger guitarist and much younger drummer, the vocalist is an Australian female and can she sing. It’s a shame we missed half their set, they were very good. Next band is 4 Thai guys, all in there 20s, very good blues. The bands rely on people placing money in a box, of course not all do, after all this is the era of FREE downloads. Tuk Tuk back to hotel, Chiang Mai is looking seriously like another visit needed.

After not much sleep. It is strange when you need to get early it is very hard to sleep.  So down to the reception at 5am to meet our driver, there was a security guard on a camp bed sound asleep, never saw us leave! We met our driver Tom we liked the music, he was playing Maroon 5 as we started our journey.

Driving through Chiangmai is a pleasure this time in the morning, no traffic, Our climb up the mountain, it’s only 19 km but takes 30 min was so twisty. Tom leaves us at the bottom, we now have 306 steps to climb and the Duke hasn’t had his Shreddies. No problem we make it to the top. 30 baht entry. Of course it’s still dark but the temple was very well lit. One of the temples has monks chanting, as it is a working temple, this creates a great atmosphere. We find the viewing point and await sun rise. At the allotted time there it is rising behind the distance mountains a truly amazing site and not many people to see it.

Another wander round the temple, we’ve never seen so many different Buddha’s, then back down the mountain. Traffic in Chiangmai is back to normal as people and students hit the roads. Back at our hotel we book Tom for a trip tomorrow. Breakfast, again excellent. A well needed sleep is the order of the day. Been sleeping for just over an hour when a knock on our door wakes us.

The Dame doesn’t look to pleased and gets up to answer. There is a girl with a birthday cake complete with one candle, probably the correct amount would have been a fire hazard. It is a beautiful cake with decorations. “ Is this gluten free” asked the Dame, “oh very sorry not gluten free madam” the Dukes eyes light up. But after a slice it is very rich so the Duke puts the rest in the fridge.

As we are up we decide to go to the pool, Very hot today. Shopping this afternoon, well it is the Dames special birthday. On this occasion we walk to a road without crossing the river. No pavement a bit tricky. In this area several shops that weave their own fabric and make unique garments, cushions, scarves bags and more. In one shop there was a camera crew from Taiwan, did they know the Dame was coming, so fame in Taiwan!! The Dame purchased a little hand made jacket. We then crossed the river to see the Flower Market, here we saw so many flowers and flower stalls, very busy, back to other side. Our feet were tired so we enter a river side restaurant, this place was vast, not for us, so we left

On the walk back the Dame picks up her new glasses. Just time for a siesta. Tonight we are eating at David’s Kitchen this side of the river. Another road with broken pavements or none at all, should have got a taxi. The entrance to David’s is very nice a pergola of tiny lights, past a moat with enormous koi carp in. Cocktails are served next door in the equally nice bar. Excellent drinks. The restaurant is very nice and on our table is a card with Happy Birthday. They offered excellent gluten free choices for the Dame. The maitre’d  tells us the history of the restaurant. Food and wine all excellent. During our meal the waiter’s come out with  birthday desserts for 4 different people. So by the time the Dames arrived people had given up clapping! A last drink in the beautiful grounds, then a Taxi back to the hotel a fantastic night.

Down for breakfast a very intimate little bistro. All the fruit and breakfast goodies are laid out beautifully.  A menu with a great selection of cooked and cold meals and even a couple that are gluten free. Example Spinach with scrambled egg, Advocado with tomato. Home made jams and none of that coffee in a flask, they make it fresh to order, all perfect.

After breakfast we head to the opticians, which is five minutes away. Two young Thai girls who don’t speak English. But they are more than helpful and get the Dame a new pair of specs ordered for today and I took a pair of over the counter reading glasses. Both at least half the price charged in Europe.

There are a lot of  “local buses” small trucks with covered open backs. So we flagged one down and for just 30 baht, it took us all the way to the old wall. The only downside is they don’t have a set route so drop other customers wherever they want to go, so can be quite a slow journey.

We visited a temple then found a really nice shop selling clothes, jewelry, handbags, scarfs. I was lucky to find a very nice linen shirt and the Dame nice earrings made by coating a mahogany seed with silver. We had lunch at a street vendor, rice noodles pork and pork balls 20 baht. Van bus (must find out what they are called) back to hotel and a couple of hours by pool. Unfortunately the main pool is shaded, so a bit cold getting  in the water. A phone call from optician. They can’t make the glasses reactolite, which was only a few baht more, No problem, the Dame will take them plain. They will be ready tomorrow. Van bus to a shopping center called Think Park recommended online, disappointed. Tuk Tuk back to old walled area to find a shop called Ginger. It was 10 min back in the direction we had come, no joy there. Clothes were a bit weird, so Tuk Tuk back to hotel.

Tonight we are dining in the hotel, we had a pre dinner cocktails at the bar. Set course was chicken satay, two curry’s and stir fried veg, all superb. Followed by chocolate fudge brownies with ice cream. So it’s early to bed as tomorrow we are getting up at 4.30am to drive to the mountains to see the sun rise.

Most guest have left, I heard the clatter of their suitcase wheels from around 5am. So breakfast just the two of us. After breakfast continue with the packing as we also of to Chaiang Mai. A couple of hours by the pool, then it’s time to leave. Our cab driver is a character. He ask were we are from… ah UK, I am a Liverpool supporter, enough said. But no, he uses a translater on his phone, he speaks in Thai then the phone speaks to us, bit un-nerving when he should be concentrating on the road. He saw Liverpool in European cup in Madrid and is saving up to visit England to see them win the Premier League!! But he did show us the Kings Palace, bit like Buckingham Palace only bigger and grandeur. In Thailand they really support their King, posters everywhere. We arrive at airport. Security, this one put usual things, plus watch, belt, keys, jacket and belt. My tray came through no watch, panic. The security guy takes my tray to put back through the scanner, Sylvia is going through the empty tray pile. He calls me over to see the X-ray of my bag, “is this your watch”? Still don’t know how it got in the bag. Lunch at airport, Green curry with rice and omelette not bad. Flight OK only 50 min with Thai Air. They served a sandwich and water all packed in re-cycled cardboard good to see. Not the water of course. Should be a taxi waiting at airport. Nowhere can be see a guy holding up Sylvia’s name. After several phone calls he arrives. Young and grumpy driving a bit of a wreck. Unlike the taxi driver in Bangkok we only got a grunt all the way to hotel. Hotel reception is lovely, very friendly good to speak after one hour of meditation!! Room is old fashioned, lots of quirky things. Hotel is also Eco. Unpacking I find I have lost my reading glasses, not a great loss they were from Ale Hop, but sad about the case. After a sleep we walk into town. A square there has live music and many stalls selling food and drink. Chicken Satay very good and the music excellent. Tuk Tuk home, he takes us passed the ladies of the night all happening here. But in room, oh no, Sylvia has lost her glasses, what a day, the trouble with getting older!

Arriving for breakfast at 8am, great only three people in restaurant. No waiting at the toaster for the slice of bread that comes out the same colour as you put it in.

Breakfast over. Ferry across the M25 and a short walk to the Palace. The crowds don’t seem to bad today. We joined the endless tour groups and funneled into the Palace. Here one guy is checking on dress, as knees and shoulders must be covered. He is very thorough, a bit to thorough if he calls out “not permitted”…? That translates as get your Elephant trousers on. Buying a ticket no problem. Then the queuing starts, through a narrow gate and into the Palace. Wow what a site endless ornate towers, monuments and people, it’s like getting into Wembley on Cup Final day.

Not sure we will like this, but we are here now and it is spectacular. So much intricate workmanship. But it’s a shame they don’t use the method of letting a number of people in at specific times, like the Alhambra in Granada. The Asians don’t appear to understand the concept of organized or queuing.

Back over the river to find some lunch. It is Sunday so the local street food places we had hoped to eat in around the market area are full. So back to a smart restaurant 2 mins from our hotel. This was also very busy but huge on 2 floors, the food was very good. Interesting observing a private party in a side room and the many exotic dishes they were enjoying including whole lobsters. We did wonder about gate crashing. Back across the river again, be getting sea legs at this rate. Looking for a money exchange shop. We asked a Tuk Tuk driver how much to take us 300 THB , sorry we aren’t buying your Tuk Tuk just want a ride. It turns out to be 10 min walk.

Tonight we are going into the main part of Bangkok. So we take a Tuk Tuk. Sylvia drives a hard bargain so off we go. The restaurant is called Alley Cat. Good Thai food , sitting at a table great for people watching.

The whole area is restaurants, bars and street vendors. A fascinating place to wander around. Dozens of ‘shops’ offering foot and leg massage with beds lined up on the street, many people both locals and tourists having a very public massage. Several bars near to each other had live music, all competing for volume and drowning each other out.

After strolling a bit more time to find a lift back, another Tuk Tuk at nail biting speed. Nearly back and a wrong turn so he just pulled over and anybody nearby comes to his aid and they all discuss the route. Almost back another wrong turn, we decide to get out and walk.

We found a unique cocktail bar in an old VW with tables made from the top of oil drums. No need to ask the Dame twice, 2 large G&T’s watching the amazing spectacle of night life on a Bangkok street.